Trim Speed

The surf is chest to head high clean hollowing rights at my favorite spot down in Capitola. A nice one is coming in so I swing my board around and paddle for it. Dropped in at an angle with a low neutral stance Derek Hynd style. I fly down the face in a high trim line with the spray coming off my bow and into my eyes. I get sucked back into the pocket and can feel the lip covering my back and hitting the outside rail. It’s a steep face and I know it’s about to section in the same spot as the last waves I slid down earlier. It doesn’t matter, I still grab the rail tight and tuck down waiting for it to happen. Sure enough, just like the last waves before I didn’t make the section. Only if I was going a little bit faster. I know it’s possible to pass the section because I’ve been lucky enough to have done it in the past. If you ever succeed making the section you’re granted another 25 yards to run through an even hollower face on the inside. I like to think my board is the reason why I’m not going as fast as I should. You see, I’m riding my pig shape here and it wasn’t designed to surf that well in these type of waves. I pulled the widest part of the board back giving it hips so it can turn easier in the beach break waves that I normally ride. In these fast, hollow waves the hips do two things that don’t work in my favor. One; they create more drag and two; they get wobbly and want to slide-ass. So I came up with a solution and it’s something that I’ve been thinking about for awhile now. I’ve decided to have Bob Miller (www.bluecoilsurf.com) craft me this new surfboard, a 9’-6” pin tail with loads of trim speed. I did a little sketch and gave it to BM. The blank was ordered and he should start shaping it anytime now. Just in time for Fall. BM is a true craftsmen and his shapes fit my surfing style perfectly. I was inspired by the old Pipeline guns of the 60’s and the green gun that Tom Wegener surfed in the film Siestas y Olas. I hope I’m on the right track. I’m making the fin for it now and I’ll post pictures of that soon.

-MR