Let me introduce to you my best buddy JR. He was born in the Philippines and moved to the great USofA during high school with his dad, mom and two older sisters. I met him my first year of high school when I joined the swim team. He was by far the fastest and most talented swimmer on the team. So naturally I wanted to be his friend not only because he was a great swimmer, funny guy or even an upper classmen, but because he was friends with all the hot girls. Throughout high school classmates always asked me to teach them how to surf but I was hesitant for the reason I never wanted the responsability of watching over someone in the water. With JR it was different because he was already a better swimmer than I. The first time I took him out was in the winter of ’97 which was a testing time to learn in these waters. We went out during the weekday after school and sometime during class, and always on the weekends. I gave him my beater board and a holy farmer John wetsuit to use. For anyone else it would have been hell but JR never complained. In fact, he enjoyed it and I’m sure it’s because he was hooked since that first wave. It wasn’t long after that he bought a wetsuit and used board for himself.
Over the next year he just progressed like no one I’ve seen before. Within a few months he was getting barreled. Not no half-ass semi cover up but full on shacked. Completely covered up and making it out clean as a whistle. It was like he’s been doing it for years. I still remember his first barrel vividly in my mind to this day. The best part about that tube ride was he never claimed it when he came out. He just finished surfing the wave and pulled out like it was no big deal. Most people including myself would have thrown my arms up in victory. What impressed me the most was his wave knowledge. JR was able to find these tubes at breaks where it normally didn’t throw over. Maybe it was both luck and skill playing a role but either way it sparked a competitive drive within me. Before he got his first barrel it was just fun and games. Now it brought out this hunger in us both to push each other to improve.
The best surf trips I ever went on were with JR and we always had a great time even if the surf was flat. I went on my first surf trip with JR when I was 16. We took my ’81 VW, diesel pickup down south for a weekend trip. That was a great truck some memories. It was slow and unreliable but it gave us 45 mpg. Since we were always broke it worked out just fine. I told my mom we were just heading to Pismo Beach for a couple days, which was the initial plan. Somewhere on the drive down there I found out that JR has never been to LA so we took a little detour. A few hours later were cruising through Hollywood in my little truck with the boards hanging out the back. We did all the touristy stuff like take photos of the Hollywood sign, see the walk of fame and check out the hookers on Santa Monica Blvd. Finally we made our way to First Point, Malibu where we surfed that evening in some really fun waist high waves. I don’t remember where we slept that night but most of the time on our trips we found refuge in the back bed on my truck parked in some quiet neighborhood or industrial park. My mom at first wasn’t too happy when she found out but she got over it. Maybe she realized I’m too much like her, going off and doing think spear the moment. Many more trips followed that one and each one had its own lesson learned, hair raising adventure or never do that again experience. Like the time we almost were car jacked in Salinas or when the tread flew off the tire and had to drive on the spare at 40 mph from Santa Maria to Santa Cruz because we had no money to fix it. Also the good times like finding new spots along the California coast and the trip we took to the Philippines and found some excellent untouched surf.
Over the next year he just progressed like no one I’ve seen before. Within a few months he was getting barreled. Not no half-ass semi cover up but full on shacked. Completely covered up and making it out clean as a whistle. It was like he’s been doing it for years. I still remember his first barrel vividly in my mind to this day. The best part about that tube ride was he never claimed it when he came out. He just finished surfing the wave and pulled out like it was no big deal. Most people including myself would have thrown my arms up in victory. What impressed me the most was his wave knowledge. JR was able to find these tubes at breaks where it normally didn’t throw over. Maybe it was both luck and skill playing a role but either way it sparked a competitive drive within me. Before he got his first barrel it was just fun and games. Now it brought out this hunger in us both to push each other to improve.
The best surf trips I ever went on were with JR and we always had a great time even if the surf was flat. I went on my first surf trip with JR when I was 16. We took my ’81 VW, diesel pickup down south for a weekend trip. That was a great truck some memories. It was slow and unreliable but it gave us 45 mpg. Since we were always broke it worked out just fine. I told my mom we were just heading to Pismo Beach for a couple days, which was the initial plan. Somewhere on the drive down there I found out that JR has never been to LA so we took a little detour. A few hours later were cruising through Hollywood in my little truck with the boards hanging out the back. We did all the touristy stuff like take photos of the Hollywood sign, see the walk of fame and check out the hookers on Santa Monica Blvd. Finally we made our way to First Point, Malibu where we surfed that evening in some really fun waist high waves. I don’t remember where we slept that night but most of the time on our trips we found refuge in the back bed on my truck parked in some quiet neighborhood or industrial park. My mom at first wasn’t too happy when she found out but she got over it. Maybe she realized I’m too much like her, going off and doing think spear the moment. Many more trips followed that one and each one had its own lesson learned, hair raising adventure or never do that again experience. Like the time we almost were car jacked in Salinas or when the tread flew off the tire and had to drive on the spare at 40 mph from Santa Maria to Santa Cruz because we had no money to fix it. Also the good times like finding new spots along the California coast and the trip we took to the Philippines and found some excellent untouched surf.
After high school we gradually drifted apart, mostly do to school and work but we always kept in contact. It’s kind of like the movie Big Wednesday how the characters grow a part but they still share that common bond of surfing that brings them together in the end. Well, that’s how we are. We still find sometime to get out and share some waves. JR is still riding the green Bob Miller board he’s had forever and that is thrashed. The whole deck is one big delam and it’s covered in dings but he’s still out there surfing as good as ever. Thanks JR for all of the great memories with many more to come. -MR
photo by: MR
photo by: Skip Hoard http://sandhphotography.com/
2 comments:
I remember Jolly-Peno...and the diary of your trip on the burger king napkins.
Ah yes. Good times. -MR
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